Before extensive landfill work pushed out the coastline, this neighborhood rested along the eastern-side Tokyo waterfront. Formerly a major lumber distribution center, Fukagawa supplied wood for the castle and growing metropolis of Edo. It was also once a major nightlife entertainment district and home to the poet Basho. Today Fukagawa retains some of Tokyo’s old Edo flavor. Our guides take guests to fire ceremonies at a Buddhist temple, a lovely garden once owned by rich samurai and later the family behind the Mitsubishi empire, a re-creation of an Edo village, and when in season, morning practice at a sumo wrestling stable. Young Japanese are slowly moving into the neighborhood, opening up artisanal cafes and bars, shops, and galleries.